The last few days, Heather, Scott and I have been traveling via bus through the Andes to Cusco, Peru.
Before leaving on the journey, we were warned many times by the locals that this route was treacherous and should only be taken during the day. For this reason, we split the 20 hour journey into two parts. The first ten hours got us to Andahuaylas, where we stopped for the night. The second leg took us to Cusco. We were also better off because it is not currently the rainy season. I really wouldn’t recommend this route from December to April.
Here are some highlights from the trip:
- Front row seats on Chankas bus to Andahuaylas. Take a look at the photo to get a feel for these. They are situated right above the driver, so you get a first hand view of the treacherousness. At first I was feeling really claustrophobic in these seats, but I was soon distracted by the fear of dying by the bus falling off a cliff.

- The road. Heather described the width of the unpaved road best by saying it was about 3/4 to 7/8 of a regular lane. The road winds through the mountains with a cliff at either side of the bus for most of the time. No guard rails. Big drops. Not to mention, lots of blind corners. As you’re hustling along in the bus, the driver honks his horn as he rounds corners to let others know he’s coming. (Note: The last 5hrs of the journey had paved roads. That was a relief.)
- The short cut. At one point the driver turned off the main route of the road to take a short cut. I don’t think this saved him much time, as he had to slowly weave through what looked more like a foot path than a road. The trail was FULL of potholes. And when you’re sitting on the very top of the bus in the front row, dips like these make it feel as if the bus is going to tip.
- The construction. Another time when we were sure the bus was going to tip over was when we went through some construction. You have to give them credit for trying to fix the road, but as we drove over piles of dirt meant to fill the potholes, the bus teetered precariously over a very steep edge. Quite nerve wracking.
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The live stock. The first time the bus stopped to avoid plowing through a herd of sheep was amusing. The 10th time is was annoying. The bus was constantly honking cows, sheep, alpacas and donkeys to either side of the road. This was especially interesting when the animals had no where to go but down steep cliffs. We also narrowly missed hitting a baby lamb, who was moving to the side at first but suddenly darted in front of the bus. I also enjoyed the lone donkey who ran in front of us for a good 100 meters before figuring out that he could move to the side.
- The random lunch stop. At about noon on our second leg to Cusco, the road ahead of us was jammed with a row of buses and trucks. At first I thought it was because of more construction, but after a while it seemed like everyone was stopped just to take a lunch break. When the line started up again about 15 minutes later, we didn’t see anything blocking the way.
- The view. Really amazing.




Hi, what an amazing adventure! If you have time, I would REALLY appreciate it if you would give me your thoughts on this: We’re 3 girls and are planning to lease a car & drive from Lima to Cuzco via Ayacucho – Andahuaylas. (We were born in Peru & attended HS there, but then left to the US to go to college & never returned. Spanish is excellent). Questions: (1) did you think it was safe? We’re concerned about highway thieves… I’m reading a lot about that. Based on what you saw, would you recommend driving on these roads? (2) Fuel: I imagine there are not a lot of gas stations… how often did your bus stop? (3) did you buy maps/travel books that were actually helpful? I’ve been to Macchu Picchu – the only one in the group, but I took the totally plush, VIP vacation. We’re looking for adventure and are seeking a connection with the people/places. We’re Peruvian after all & it’s crazy we don’t even know our own country. Anyway, the trip is 5/28/10 – 6/4/10. I don’t know if this is enough time to drive from Lima – Cuzco RT. Thanks & I really enjoyed your website!
I don’t know if you’ll see this, but there are a number of blogs/sites where people talk about the Lima – Cusco drive. I did it 10 years ago in a tiny Toyota Yaris… probably a dumb thing to do but too young to know it at the time. I took Lima – Nazka – Abancay (but I don’t remember which road to Abancay, I think it was Ayacucho). The road was great 90% of the way. It was the other 10% that was hard – there were river wash outs (scary in a small car) and many rock slides which required us to take the make-shift detours over tough dirt terrain. I have read elsewhere that the roads are great now. As for driving – everything says generally crazy driving, some thieves (mostly at night).
As for the drive back, the road Cusco – Puno is excellent and flat. 10 years ago Puno to the coast was a nightmare (but it was just being built then) and the Pan American up the coast was great (except for the sand-blown roads which are literally covered in mini sand dunes, requiring a lot of attention).
Its a very do-able drive. Give yourself enough time thought…
Good luck!