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Before leaving Arequipa, Scott and I made sure to visit the Colca Canyon. I´ve been putting off the trip in lieu of other, more distant locations. We squeezed it into our last couple of weeks in Arequipa. Now I wish I had more time to explore the region, which is geographically gorgeous and spotted with random ruins. We pretty much just followed the gringo trail. Highlights:

Chivay: I figured this would be a pass through town, as it is not the best place from which to see the canyon proper. The little town turned out to be surprisingly welcoming and warm, with a small set of ruins and hot springs within walking distance. It got really cold after dark (altitude was over 12,000 feet), so we spent both nights there initially next to the wood stove at Los Lobos, a pizza joint, and then snuggled up in bed at our hotel watching movies.

The Oasis and Mule Rides UP the Canyon: The hike down the Colca Canyon was tough. Scott and I weren´t very prepared for such a tough trek, having left our hiking boots at home. The trail was only two-thirds the height of the Grand Canyon, but all gravel and loose rocks. I fell three times. Once down at the Oasis though, Scott and I had an awesome dinner of tuna fish sandwiches. I befriended the resident dog by letting him lick the cans clean, and then we all proceeded to sit in the darkness together, drinking wine and watching the stars.

We contracted two mules to carry us (and our packs) up the canyon the next morning. Scott had two huge blisters forming, and I didn’t want to fall anymore! It took the mules (and the guide, who was on foot) two hours. It took Scott and I two and a half to walk down. Um, yeah. Mules are amazing animals, and that guide was super human.

Cruz del Condor: I was very prepared to not like the Cruz del Condor because it is such a hyped up tourist stop. Turned out to be awesome. Not too crowded, although there were more white people there than I´d seen in one place in a long time. And the condors are truly amazing. They just soar around, staring at the crowd like we´re weirdos. From the top their feathers are smooth and they look majestic, from the bottom they look like fat turkeys with huge wings. Definitely worth the stop.