Last week I woke up 8 hours into our bus ride from Arequipa to La Paz, stretched, and then asked Scott what where we were… Puno. Not even half way. And you know what? I was stoked. I had another 8 hours to enjoy the Lake Titicaca scenery, music on my iPod, and my current reading material.
I love long bus rides. I know, it’s a little crazy.
We’re gearing up for another long ride to Cusco on Monday night. There are some tricks. We are turning it into a science. Here are our essentials:
1. Take Cruz del Sur or Ormeño.
- The two best, and most closely competing bus companies in Peru. (Cruz del Sur has a leg up because you can buy tickets at many grocery stores and tour agencies on the spot. Ormeño is limited to their ticket kiosks at bus stations.)
- “Direct” buses are most guaranteed to actually be “direct”. (Ie – not including a billion stops and bus changes.) We learned this lessons on our way back from Oruro when it took 4 buses and 2 days to get back with a different bus company.
2. Book early (1-2 days before you leave) for the best seats.
- Seats on the first floor are pretty much like recliners, and are also more expensive.
- We typically go for seats on the 2nd floor, which are narrower and a less cushy padded. Less expensive, but still quite comfy.
- For Cruz del Sur: Seats 1, 2, 3 and 4 on the 2nd floor. Right up front, best views, and the most leg room.
- For Ormeño: Seats 7 and 8, located just behind the stairwell on the 2nd floor, have the most leg room. (The very front of Ormeño buses have a ‘lounge’ where anyone can sit.)
3. Bring food and water.
- Some long bus rides include food, but it’s scarier than airline food.
- We’ve been stocking up on crackers, choclitos (kind of like corn nuts), cookies, cereal bars (sadly, no Luna-esque type bars here), water, and candy.
- I had the brilliant idea on our way home from La Paz to bring peanut butter, bread, and carrot sticks. Something healthier than grains and sugar!
4. Pack a travel pillow, blanket, ear plugs and eye mask. 
- If you’re going to be on a bus for 12 hours plus, you might as well go all out with these things. Unlike airlines, buses don’t provide pillows or blankets.
- It gets cold in the high altiplano of Peru, not to mention some buses are really drafty. In addition to the blanket, you might also be sure to have your jacket and a hat.
- I specifically have a Thermarest Pillow and Silk Sleep Sack. They are so nice. Mmmm.
5. Entertain yourself.
- iPod – Fully stocked with Latin Chill travel tunes, like Federico Aubele, and podcasts. I’ve been using bus rides as an opportunity to catch up on world news. I heart PRI’s The World podcast.
- Books – I’m currently reading Breaking out of Beginning Spanish and Hot, Flat and Crowded.
- Nintendo DS – I’m loving My Spanish Coach!
6. Bring power!
- It’s sad times when you can’t listen to your iPod.
- Scott is our power management guru. He has an awesome battery pack for the iPod, and a solar battery charger. Not to mention all of the cords and such for powering up once we’re at our location.
- p.s. He is also our water management guru. And typically our medic. I am the tour guide!
7. Store your bags under your feet.
- We haven’t had any issues with our bags so far. But there are tons of warnings of theft on buses out there. Better safe than bagless…
- This is also a tip to pack super light… something we haven’t quite conquered.
8. Watch the view!
- You’ll probably sleep for a good portion of long trips, as they are typically overnight. BUT…
- I love watching the changing landscape, political graffiti, livestock antics, stray dogs eating carcasses, small town Carnaval celebrations, men peeing in corners, women carrying all kinds of things on their backs. It’s complicated and beautiful. And extra surreal from the second story of a plush bus.
9. Use a GPS to track your ride.
- How else would we have known we were near Puno that morning? There aren’t exactly regular street signs on Peru’s mountain highways. Our GPS gives us a location, and also estimates how much longer we have on the trip. (That can be good or bad, I guess.)
- It’s also really fun to see your ascents and descents. Some of the roads here are frighteningly steep.
10. Bring a riding partner who always gives you the windows seat, lets you use his pillow (even though you have one of your own), and doesn’t mind when you throw your legs over him to get comfortable. 
- When I told Scott I was writing this blog post, he reminded me that he is my secret ingredient to comfortable bus rides. I guess the rest of you will have to suffer.
I like #10. I knew Jeremy was the guy for me when we took our first flight and we traded on and off using each other as pillows. His back is so comfortable! He lies on my lap and I use his back as a pillow – very cozy. It’s typically comfortable for both of us but since certain body parts go numb we switch every so often.
And that is a great shot of Scott. The Bilas’ boys are very photogenic… don’t you think?
Since you can’t find Luna bars, be sure and stock up on the Quinoa energy bars in Cusco! The ones with names like Inca Power! or Inca Energy! Get the ones that cost a little more and are a little weightier. MMMMMmmm, Inca Power!
Good tips for the bus! We took Oltursa from Nazca to Arequipa and they gave us pillows and blankets and passed by with cups of Inca Cola pretty regularly. Of course, the food was awful! My favorite part of the bus rides is how I can’t stop watching the awful movies! Haven’t braved the overnight buses yet…
[...] Many, many long bus rides! [...]
Thanks for the Tips! Especially as to where to sit!!